How lemonades became hip
Published: Monday, Feb 19th 2024, 11:20
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Fruity, non-alcoholic, vegan - 30 years ago, the German drinks manufacturer Bionade began to shake up the market. Many others followed suit - including in Switzerland. The trend for hip sodas that want to make the world a better place is still going strong.
Where there used to be beer, water, orange juice and Coca-Cola, there is now an almost unmanageable variety of colorful lemonades and soft drinks. From German cult brands Fritzlimo, Club Mate and Lemonaid to the trendy Swiss drinks Gazosa, Vivi Kola and Nycha Kombucha.
Hip lemonades seem to be particularly popular in big cities. They want to be much more than just a thirst quencher, a statement for a conscious lifestyle. The drinks have actually been around for a long time: in Switzerland, Gazosa from Ticino has been produced since 1883 and is now made by eight different producers.
Vivi Kola was also launched for the first time in 1938, but was discontinued in 1986 due to competition from the international cola giants. However, the resurgent soda trend led to a relaunch in 2010 - with success to this day.
Born out of necessity
In Germany, on the other hand, the trend originated in the provinces. 30 years ago, on February 24, 1994, master brewer Dieter Leipold from Ostheim vor der Rhön in Bavaria, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, applied for a patent for a new lemonade: Bionade.
"What set Bionade apart back then was that it wasn't perceived as a soft drink at all," says psychologist and market researcher Jens Lönneker from the Cologne-based market research institute Rheingold Salon. Cola and Fanta were already frowned upon as being too sweet back then.
Bionade came up trumps with its natural production, less sugar and smaller bottles than typical sweet drinks. "From the point of view of many consumers, this was a completely new beverage category," says Lönneker. The drink gained momentum in the 90s. At the same time, beer consumption declined, but the trend remained unbroken.
Business model for farmers
Like beer, Bionade is brewed with barley malt. The only difference is that no alcohol is produced. Following the example of bees, sugar is turned into gluconic acid through fermentation. The bottle is also based on the shape of a classic beer bottle.
Today, the beverage idea also secures the income of farmers in the area. Many of them now grow elderberries. According to the company, this is the most popular Bionade variety.
Lychee, herbs and lemon bergamot are also very popular today. According to its own figures, Bionade achieved a six percent increase in turnover in 2022.
"Lohas" as a target group
"Bionade was a completely new type of soft drink. With its low calorie content, it was very much ahead of the zeitgeist," says Detlef Gross, Managing Director of the German non-alcoholic beverage trade association Wafg. Many other drinks manufacturers followed suit.
Club-Mate, for example, began to compete with cola as a caffeinated drink. The recipe for success: the new soft drinks should not only be organic, but also fairly produced and sustainable. Drinking for a better world, so to speak. Fritz-Kola from Hamburg promoted this with a "Drink from glass" campaign against plastic waste.
The target group for the "good sodas" includes the so-called Lohas (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability). People who want to live healthily and sustainably. In Switzerland, for example, "Lori's Cold Brew Mate" from Lucerne makes use of this. The herb used comes from organic and fair cultivation. The same applies to Nycha Kombucha from Wettingen.
In addition to lemonades, soft drinks also include iced teas and energy drinks. Water with added fruit - so-called "near-water" products - are also increasingly finding their way into beverage markets. For example, the Swiss vitamin water Focuswater from Rivella.
Treat yourself with a clear conscience
Psychologist Lönneker sees waves in the market that last around seven to ten years: sometimes the trend is more towards abstinence and water, sometimes more towards gluttony and flavored, sweet drinks.
"When life seems tedious, many people want to treat themselves to a drink," says Lönneker. In view of social challenges such as wars, climate change and political unrest, he also sees a current trend towards sweetening one's life. With a clear conscience, of course.
©Keystone/SDA
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